
We decided the best way to see Ireland was with a tour and so Lisa and I went on the "Southern Rocker". Just for the record - FECK is an Irish term that is used as a substitute for other 4 letter words that may not be as socially acceptable. As Sean explained, "you can say Feck to your own mott'er about her own mott'er and n'one will bat an eye, but if ya use the other term, you'll have both yer eyes batted!"
After only a few hours of shuteye, we were up and out to join our Shamrocker tour of Southern Ireland! After meeting "Sean" the tour guide, "Dermit" the bus driver, the 9 Aussies and 1 Belgium guy that were to be our traveling cohorts, we were off. Sean turned out to be a hippie historian and was nothing short of brilliant the entire time, while Dermit proved to be a driving ace doing everything from driving up hillsides to avoid oncoming cars, backing down a cliffs edge to get us closer to a beach and taking a 90+ degree turn while at near top speeds. Out of the crew we were traveling with the Belgium guy was a little strange but seemed very nice and drank like a fish, while 3 of the Aussies were awesome and the other 6 were spoiled little brats who were on holidays paid by daddy. It certainly didn’t affect us as Team Canada (Lisa and myself) and the 3 Aussies with a maturity level greater than a 15 year old all took up residency together on the bus as well as in our first hostel. Before I get to the nights accommodation, I will go over what we did/saw in the first day on the road.
After leaving Dublin we drove directly to Lockes Whiskey Distillery the oldest whiskey distillery in the world. What better way to start your day then with a complementary double shot of single mart, 12 year old whiskey? How about with three, double shots of single malt, 12 year old whiskey. Lisa does not drink whiskey so I had hers and a wonderful friend which we met on the trip, (also named Lisa but from this point forward will be known as Aussie Lisa), also did not drink whiskey so I had that one as well. I was informed that it is unlucky to waste even a drop of Irish whiskey, and with all the traveling we had yet to do I felt obliged to make sure we did not bring on any unnecessary bad luck this trip. Now that I was feeling warm all over, back on the bus for a quick trip to the ruins of Clonmacnoise. Clonmacnoise was a cathedral in its day and is now a very elaborate set of ruins with an expansive cemetery and crypt surrounding it. Its significance is that it is one of the oldest cathedrals in Ireland and has some of the first ever stone Christian Crosses or High Crosses on its grounds. It also has an ancient stone circle next to it and the site is thought to have been used for religious ceremonies since between 3000 and 4000 BC. Turns out that archeology class did teach me something. The ruins themselves were spectacular as many of the doorways and walls still have a few original carvings from the middle ages. I took the opportunity of walking an old graveyard to scare the living daylights out of Lisa. Lisa was looking in one of the crypts which had a window at the far end. Through the window was a stone cross that stood around 3 meters high, and Lisa thought it would be a great picture to take as the windows edge provided a nice border around the cross. I seized the opportunity as I went around the back side of the building and popped up in the window as she was taking the picture. Absolute hilarity, you can’t buy that kind of entertainment!
From Clonmacnoise we drove along the shores of the River Shannon to the Castle of Burren. As the story goes the owner of this castle was a red haired woman and one of the first women to own a castle on the island of Ireland. The king got word of this and refused to let a woman to own such a magnificent castle and its surrounding land, so she struck a deal with the king and said she would marry one of his men, so that technically her husband would own the castle and yet she could stay in the home she loved. The king agreed and a knight was chosen to be her husband and the new owner of the castle. On their wedding night the red-haired woman invited her new husband up to the top of the castle walls so that he could look out over all the land he now owned. Story goes that the knight lost his balance and fell off the top of the wall and died. This story repeated itself three times and after her third husband fell to his death no knight would agree to marry her. The King was forced to let her keep her castle and land. Smart lady eh? Nope – Feckin Crazy Lady! Turns out that she had a lust for murder. A few years later she hosted a New Years party for the entire town, but instead for fireworks and Champagne she waited for the entire town to be inside the court yard of her castle and then locked the doors from the outside and burnt her own castle to the ground, with the entire town trapped inside! From that day forward no red-haired women are allowed in the county of Burren on New Years Eve or New Years Day.
Next on the list was an archeology site called Pol-na-Brone which was an Neolithic burial site that had also been tied to some Irish Folklore. However the weather turned on us and we didn’t stay long. We were suppose to head to the famous Cliffs of Mother but due to poor weather we decided to try it tomorrow and just to retire to the hostel for the night. That night we stayed in Doolin and enjoyed a few pints and some grub at one of the local pubs.
Do want to know the best way to wake up? Not at 6:35am to Kings of Leon’s “Sex is On Fire” at full blast, that’s for damn sure! This was courtesy of the 6 princesses on our tour. None the less, we were up and ready for another day. We headed down the coast for our second attempt at the famous Cliffs of Mother. However due to extreme fog you couldn’t even tell the cliffs where there. Instead I took a photo of me standing in front of a wall mural of the cliffs that was located in the gift shop. Looks spectacular! We continued our drive up the coast of Clare hearing some horrific and some hilarious Irish tales. Sean did a fantastic job of mixing the history of the island with the folklore and fairy tales. The trip up the coast also included many short stops for some amazing photography opportunities. As the day progressed the fog lifted and we were left with some of the incredible beauty of the Atlantic coast of Southern Ireland. I played on a beach and lost my soul for 40 years. Legend has it that on this particular beach anyone who lets the Atlantic waters cover the tops of their feet will loose a part of their soul for 40 years and can only reclaim it by returning in 40 years and again allowing the Atlantic waters to run over the tops of their feet again. So looks like I will be Ireland bound in 4 decades if anyone cares to join me. And I don’t want to hear that anyone already has plans! The rest of the day consisted of enjoying the Irish countryside, a ferry to Kerry across the river Shannon, a lunch stop in the town of Dingle – Home of “Fungi” the Dingle Dolphin – a trip around the Dingle Peninsula (where the beach was located), and a gorgeous drive through the Kerry Mountains. This day was filled with some of the most magnificent scenery I have ever had the privilege of seeing with my own two eyes. Everything so was lush and rugged, it really is the Emerald Isle. I would rank it right up there with the Rockies for how mesmerizing they are. Also, on another note, we were fortunate enough to see a family of dolphins playing in the swells off the coast. One of the Aussies we were traveling with informed us the waves were around 3 meters high and would make for some incredible surfing. The winds were so strong I don't know how anyone could stay on a board in that weather! We spent the night in Killarney and took in a truly one of a kind experience. Myself and the two Lisa’s, along with Sean, went to Pub Theater. To explain, Pub Theater is a one man show where “Pa” (actual name is Patrick, but has not been called that since before his mother died – note, his mother is still alive) acts out every character in a 1.5 hour production based on life in the pub. Pub Theater is actually held in pub, O’Connor’s to be exact, which is located above another pub. I still can’t figure out where is got its name. Pa was hilarious and the show was spectacular! Not only was the play good, but he included some poetry, a few songs, and drank 5 pints of Guinness and 4 shots of Irish Whiskey inside of that time frame. It’s no wonder he only does one show a night! Because there were so few of us, after the show we all sat around with Pa drinking, laughing, singing and playing songs. With Pa on the Bodhran (handheld drum played with a double ended drumstick), Sean playing guitar and Aussie Lisa playing piano, it was quite the show. If only Lisa had her Fiddle!! As I am not so musically inclined, I kept to the drinking part with a little singing here and there. At the end of the night Pa pulled me aside and told me he would give me advice I could use for the rest of my life. His advice “Kiss every girl you meet – but only kiss her hand.” I could have sworn I had heard that advice before, but whoever told it to me must have skipped the second line.
On our third and final day of this world wind tour of southern Ireland we learned more about the recent history of Ireland (from the famine through to the civil war) and traveled to the only part of the country that doesn't have Guinness coursing through its veins. The city of Cork is a rival of Dublin (where Guinness is brewed) and so the people there don’t drink it. (Or should I say don’t drink as much of it.) Instead they have an even darker stout called Murphy’s. It is not bad but it is not Guinness. After Cork we went to kiss the Blarney Stone and see Blarney Castle. As legend is told, those who kiss the Blarney Stone while hanging upside down from the castle wall will be rewarded with the gift of the gab, and apparently be able to BS their way into or out of any situation. I will let you know how it works when the time comes. The castle itself was very well intact and was a maze of stairwells and similar shaped rooms. I found a cave that once was a dungeon and I almost got stuck in it. Isn’t strange how it is so much easier to squeeze into small spaces than it is to squeeze out? However, after this tiny cave, we made our way to the largest series of caves in the UK and one of the largest in Europe. The Mitchelstown Caves span 3 km underground through a series of tunnels and lakes and were formed some 10 to 12 thousand years ago by a network of underground rivers and streams. I am happy to say that in order to test the acoustics of the caves we sang “Oh Canada” loud and proud! Our last stop on the tour was the Rock of Cashel fortress, which was both a monastery and a fortress and is the only one like it in the world. Goes to show you how tough those Irish really are, even their monks are kicking ass! On route back to Dublin we drove through the quaint town of Tipperary, home of Gaelic Football (kind of like Aussie Rules with an Irish twist) and finally by the Kildare stud farms which, throughout history has laid claim to some of the fastest horses in world.
Long one I know, but it was an action packed few days! We made some great friends and had a "Great Craich" along the way. Highly recommended tour to anyone who wants to experience the island of Ireland!